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January 15, 2009


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The method I describe will work equally well with mahogany strips, for which you really need to use the best that you can get hold of. I would recommend that you use Brazilian mahogany for several reasons; it works well and is far less prone to splitting than other varieties, it takes finish well, and will look far better in the final result.
The wide margine boards on traditional river craft of your type are not bent, but are cut from wide boards. There are several ways to do this, and if it were me I think that I would be tempted to edge glue strips about three quarters of an inch wide around some sort of former or mould to build up the correct width. It would be very strong and if you are careful the joints will be essentially unoticable.

Hi, My question is about bending the strips to stay parallel around the sides of the sail boat . It seems to me that teak wouldn't bend cross grain like that. Are the pieces cut from bigger strips to achieve the degree of deflection needed ?

No, the strips are bent as I outlined in the article. When the strips are cut you need to ensure that the grain in the strips is vertical which gives even color, wear and makes them easier to bend as I show.

I am in the process of repairing and removing rotten ,material from the pilot house of my 1960 Chessepeak Deadrise. I am considering using Azek type wainscot for the ceiling and aft walls of the pilot house and trimming the windows and helm with mahogany. Any thoughts on using manufactured lumber?



I see no reason why Azek and other types may not work. However,from a purely aesthetic point of view I would be careful or it may look very cheap. My experience of it on non boat related projects seems to be that you need to have a good support behind so don't skimp on the structure behind or it will sag and look horrid.

I have been given some bambo planking 1/4”x1/3/4”
I’m thinking on using it on my Grand Banks bridge deck
My question is what do you think of bambo for a deck?

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