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June 05, 2012


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Do you plan to use it un coated or do you plan to apply some type of coating (oil,cetol, etc).

I'll leave it natural. That is the beauty of teak it can be left to weather to a silver grey will no ill effects. The trim on the boat, handrails, toerails etc are varnished teak but the stuff you walk on is left natural as it is non skid that way and accents the varnished bits very well. Additionally if you start applying some sort of finish then you have to keep up with it which means longer spent on maintenance each year. The best maintenace for unvarnished teak is to give it a light scrubbing a couple of times each year with a not too stiff brush and plenty of clean water.

Any thoughts on sanding the insides of the holes? Must have been a pretty tough part of the job.

If you make a good job of planing up the wood and are neat n gluing the slats together the sanding to in the holes is quick and simple. Using the PU adhesive has it's advantage here as any squeeze out is easily cleaned up. It would be a different story with epoxy though and for this reason alone is not recommended for this project.

When sanding the little squares or it is necessary to strip old finish or adhesive from between the strps I use a Dynafile belt sander w/ 120 grit paper, or paint stir stick with 3M Gold sticky back sand paper. Both work well.
Mary Richter


Many thanks for the tip. Given that it is so tedious to sand the insides of the squares I try to avoid that at all costs and that is one of my reasons for using the PU adhesive. I do acknowledge that on older boats it may be necessary however. So thanks for the tip.

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