Hauling the boat out of the water is a time filled with trepidation and enthusiasm in equal measure. The former because it has been some time since I have last seen the underside of the boat and the second because it means that I shall soon have a nice clean bottom and will be on the water again very soon. I have always found that it pays to have a plan before the boat is hauled whether doing the work yourself or trusting it to a yard it makes good sense to have an action plan that way nothing is overlooked and you can be confident when the boat touches the water again nothing will have been over looked. It is all too easy I have found to convince yourself that you will remember all the things that need attention when the boat is out of the water. I have learned the hard way that the best course of action is to make a note even if it is not urgent as an aide memoir. A note in the log to the effect of ‘vibration from port engine at 1500 rpm’ or ‘speed log under reading’ should do it. In an effort to help with your own boat I have put together a check list covering many of the things that should be given attention too. It might seem like a long list but not everything will be applicable to every craft and additionally many items just require a visual check.
Cleaning the hull
As soon as the boat comes out of the water the bottom should be power washed with a pressure washer. Don¹t put this off thinking that you¹ll do it later, leave it couple of weeks and the critters on the bottom set like concrete.
Most yards pressure wash the boat the moment it comes out of the water and the boat is still in slings. A pressure washing also washes off some of the antifouling paint so many yards have a designated area, which collects run off and filters out the solids before they can run back into the sea. While you are blasting off the bottom take time to get any crustaceans and other debris out from the paddlewheel log if this is fitted
Visually inspect the hull
With all the dirt removed now is good time to visually inspect the hull for damage. Mark the hull with a wax crayon of a contrasting color around any areas that require further investigation or repair. Look for dings and gouges and make sure that unless these are anything more than superficial they are repair before the boat goes back into the water. Prime areas are the stem just below the waterline, chine knuckles and leading edges of rudders and keels. Check the hull for blisters which could be a sign of osmosis, a prime site for these is just below the boot stripe. If you discover anything resembling a blister get it checked out right away, leaving it will only make things worse and they will not go away and the repair bill will be that much larger next year.
Anodes
Depending on the boat you will most likely have an anode on each prop shaft one on the rudder(s) and a couple bolted somewhere onto the hull. These must never be painted and should be replaced at least once each season or sometimes more frequently. Anodes can wear at an alarming rate if you keep your boat in a marina where the shore power connections are less than perfect. If they look more wasted than in previous years come haul out time it may not be a problem with your boat at all but could be stray current from a neighboring boat in the marina, in which case get the marina staff to check the slip wiring.
Through hulls
If you count up the number of through hulls on the average boat it is somewhat alarming. Every one has the potential to sink your boat should they fail. Check bronze fittings for corrosion, scrape them lightly with a screwdriver and if they look pink rather than brass colored this is sign of galvanic corrosion, which requires investigation. On the inside of the boat check the bonding wire is in place and is firmly connected to each and every fitting. Make sure that every hose is double clamped, replace any hose clamps that are corroded or missing. Operate seacocks where these are fitted and pump in some waterproof grease if a grease nipple is fitted. Marelon fittings are not susceptible to corrosion but can become clogged. Make sure that the handle operates smoothly.
Transducers
Sonar, depth and speed transducers will not work properly if they are not clean. Check for leaks around the back nut on the inside of the boat. Any suspect transducers should be removed and rebedded or replaced if they have stopped working.
Propellers
Carefully inspect propellers for signs of damage and corrosion. If they have been on the boat for longer than a couple of years consider getting them removed professionally checked, polished and balanced. If you have hit anything then a blade might be bent or a lump might be missing from a tip leading to out of balance running and vibration.
SSB ground plane
If you have a MF/HF radio make sure that the ground plane is in good condition and the connections on the inside of the boat are secure and corrosion free. Green verdigris is a good indication of bad connections, which will result in poor radio transmitter performance.
Cutless bearings
Ensure that the cutless bearings are in good condition have replaced any that are cracked or worn, this is not always easy to tell as struts and the ends of bearings are often covered in anti fouling paint. Any suspect bearings should be replaced; it is surprising how only a slightly worn bearing makes itself felt with increased vibration and noise. A worn bearing will also cause the shaft to ‘chatter’ at certain revolutions leading to wear of the prop shaft.
Shaft seals
One of the projects that owners and yards often put off is the replacement of the stern gland packing. Often a difficult job this is only something that can be done with the boat out of the water. A traditional packing is meant to leak slightly, it’s lubricated by seawater but anything more than a drip each minute means that attention is needed. Sometimes a tightening is all that is needed often though the packing needs to be replaced. A failed shaft seal will let water into the boat at an alarming rate so only trusted this work to a competent trained mechanic.
Outboard and outdrive legs
Don’t leave outboard legs with old oil in them for any length of time especially if the weather turns cold. Gear housings should be emptied and refilled with the correct oil, also replace any anodes and last but not least replace water pump impellers which are often overlooked.
Trim tabs
With the boat on a cradle get someone in the boat to operate the trim tabs while you watch what happens. They should move freely with no sticky patches from fully up to fully down. Get oil seals and or rams replaced if they do not work correctly. Likewise with stabilizers which should operate smoothly without any jerking.
Painting
After all the routine repairs and maintenace has been carried out the last thing to do before the boat goes back into the water will be to reapply a fresh coat of antifouling paint. Talk to your yard to find out what they would recommend for your boat. Not only will you have to choose a color but the yard might also want to know what type of antifouling you wish to use given your choice of cruising grounds and where you keep your boat and how often you use it.
Survey time
With the boat out of the water now is good time to get the boat surveyed especially if you are considering changing insurance companies who may require hull survey anyway. A surveyor may also be able to spot things that you or the yard have missed or overlooked.
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