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Sails are expensive so it pays to look after them. Depending on the sail this means folding or rolling it properly, keeping them clean and making repairs swiftly before they become major problems. This really is a case of a stitch in time. Repairs underway are often just first aid until you can get the sail fixed by a professional loft - here's a kit that will keep you moving.
A. Curved and straight needles of different diameters.
B. Stainless-steel scissors for cutting thread and sailcloth.
C. Whip-end dip. The brush in the lid can also be used to dab the dip onto small holes and tears to prevent the threads from running.
D. Luff and leech tapes for repairing the edges of the sails, which are subject to chafe and high loads.
E. Pieces of sailcloth of the same type and weight as all working sails carried on board.
F. Sailmaker’s palm for pushing needles through several layers of cloth.
G. A small sailcloth bag, which you could make yourself to practice stitching skills—not essential, but useful for keeping scraps of sailcloth clean.
H. Sailmaker’s waxed twine. Useful for repairs on high-load areas, such as the luff and leech; can also be used for whipping ropes.
I. Plastic watertight screw-top container to store all the components of the repair kit.
J. Dacron thread for stitching patches onto sails and reinforcing sail-repair tape.
K. Nylon spinnaker cloth in every color that is used in your spinnaker.
L. Adhesive sail tape for small holes and tears (always tape both sides of a repair).
M. Candle for waxing needles to make them easier to push through heavy sailcloth, or where there might be multiple layers such as at head, tack or clew.
I've liked tugs ever since I was a small kid and had a wind up toy in the bathtub. I seems I am not alone, a swift trawl of the internet brings up all manner of small self build "mini tugs" that we can build to satisfy our craving. Many of these smaller tugs look like tugs at a distance, but their underwater profile is often not at all tug like. Many have basically flat bottoms and do not appear to be able to stand up to anything more than a six inch chop before they become uncomfortable. One series of boats that I have always liked the look of are the designs from Ken Hankinson. These plans are sold through the Glen-L website and I liked them so much that some years back I even went as far as ordering the plans for one of his boats. Sizes of the boats go from 16 up to about 22 feet, so even the largest is not that big by any stretch, but look closely at the drawing of the sixteen footer above and you will see that it has a proper displacement under body. This little boat could easily by driven by a small single or twin cylinder diesel. There's no point in overpowering it, 4 to 5 knots is all your going to get out of this boat. But the deep forefoot, hearty bilge and workmanlike keel that protects the prop and rudder hint at a very seaworthy hull for its size. As the engine and tanks would be mounted low down I imagine that the motion would be sea kindly and purposeful, just the way that it should be. She should be able to stand up well to bite of a blow when other flat bottomed tugs are afraid to leave their moorings.
The proportions from the drawing look absolutely right, despite the short length. The sheer is a delight and the round counter stern, although more difficult to construct than a transom is very pleasing to the eye.
The plans are available for building in steel or plywood. Scantlings are robust in nature so far from being a toy these boats could very well be useful as marina work boats. Add a substantial set of towing bits aft of the pilot house and a fire hose and this could be a very businesslike vessel indeed, all for a fairly modest cost.
I like this a lot. Perhaps it's time to dust off those plans......
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